Scenes of Vermont Restaurant Reviews

 

Nom de chef ``Shadow" alights the palate
at Simon Pearce

        The open lines and fresh atmosphere overlooking the waterfall at The Simon Pearce Restaurant, invites you to sit down and ready yourself for the exceptional pas de deus between wait-staff and chef. The modern and extremely inventive Irish influenced menu presents itself as honestly as the clean exposed interior of mill brick and beam.

        Our waitress was warm, attentive and as fully knowledgeable as a well-trained majordomo without the pretension. Although we were in a restaurant full of customers, she made my associate and I feel ``alone and special."

         The choices on the menu were quite enticing. My personal choice was the Horseradish Encrusted Cod with Leek over Garlic Mashed Potato. Upon its arrival, the presentation did not take your eye into the world of culinary riff-raff. Again the quality of honesty to the true cuisine was in place.

Horseradish encrusted Cod at Simon Pearce's Restaurant - Photo by Tim Palmer-Benson

 Chef Henahan is quoted as saying ``Let the food make the statement, we only help it along." Elegant and delectable, the very fresh cod is lightly encrusted with the tang and hint of the sweetness of horseradish. The sauce, a caramelized shallot worked in with balsamic vinegar brings this to almost the consideration of a good brandade. The potato is not overwhelming but a glove to fit the hand. Finally, the delicate wisps of dried shallot are placed aloft. I asked Chef James Henahan a.k.a. ``Shadow" about this delightful entrée, and his comment was:

    ``This actually has been an adaptation of our own over the past seven years. It has always been popular, and we affectionately call it comfort food. We just love to make iit."

             The finest accolades are well in order for this most delightful experience. The Simon Pearce Restaurant once again consistently defines fine dining. This absolute combination of pleasures leaves no doubt, your return.

          The Simon Pearce Restaurant did not have any expectation, that they were to be reviewed. The meal was not given to the reviewer, as to enhance or color any opinion.

Olex Beck

Comment!

[Reviews] [Ski Reviews] [Restaurants] [Vermont Weekends] [Potpourri]

 Copyright © 2000
Scenes of Vermont