If you're budget conscious about your skiing packages and can settle for something quite a bit less than the Aspen experience, Smugglers' Notch Ski Resort could be a good choice. Just one day at this resort and you'll realize that it has strong appeal for first time skiers and middle income families. There's a whole mountain (Morse mountain) that seems almost entirely devoted to the beginning skier. Smuggs is a good choice for building your confidence. The instruction is first rate and the terrain is easy.

All this is not to stay that Smuggs doesn't have challenging terrain - it certainly does! The resort boasts the only triple diamond run in the East. On Madonna and Sterling mountains you can enjoy plenty of extreme skiing when conditions are right. There are a bunch of glades for those who like to combine mogul skiing with dodging trees, a terrain park and half pipe. Snowmaking is inadequate.

What is really irritating about Smuggs is its aging, old style lifts. There is not a detachable quad or a gondola to be found. On weekends, this can result in horrendous lift lines at the Madonna and Sterling Mountain Base Lodge and the situation can be exacerbated by there not being enough terrain open at the summits. As well, the Madonna lift is often shut down because of high winds at its top (3,640 feet). Singles lines are obviously inappropriate here, so singles have to wait in amongst the doubles waiting to be called. Still, with ticket prices below the $50.00 mark what is one to expect. New lifts cost millions of dollars and Smuggs clientele is not that of a Killington or Stratton.

There are sharp contrasts between the old and the new at Smuggs and a strange feeling that the place is trying to cope with unfortunate design decisions made in the past.

• The welcome center is clean and attractive with a men's and ladies washroom that boasts a heated toilet seat. But, next door, underneath a coffee shop and a pizza cafe, one finds an architectual scene out of the 1950s. Yes, it's green basement paint, glowing slot machines and battered wood trim. I was shocked  because of the sharp contrast with the neat and modern Rigabello Pizzeria above. Perhaps this state of affairs exists because the mountain leases its seven eateries to outside interests.
   
• Lunch in the Mountain Grille can only be described as lacklustre. By this I mean canned soup and a slightly stale bulky roll. Soup, soda and a marinated portabello mushroom cap cost $10.00. I did not gain the impression that this was a place for gourmet dining despite its' nice atmosphere. For lunch and to avoid a crowded cafeteria, a better choice may be Green Pepper's Pub in the ground floor of the Madonna/Sterling Lodge.
   
• You are encouraged to try the connection with Stowe Mountain Resort by taking the Sterling mountain chair and then Snuffy's Trail from the summit. But, if you should do so, you will need a Stowe lift ticket to get back. The cost for one ride is $12.00.
   
• If you have an appointment to meet someone at the Village, and you are skiing the Madonna or Sterling mountain runs, be advised that it may take you longer than you might think to get there. This is because there is only one interconnect (Meadowlark). It is notoriously flat. Because of this, you are advised to take a shuttle bus which operates every 20 minutes.

Timothy Palmer-Benson March 2000